In Japan, the sushi bar where the chef chops fish for the clientele is a kind of stage. In which case all the world’s a sushi bar for Nobuyuki Matsuhisa, whose deluxe Nobu chain has taken root in dozens of cities across the globe. Matt Tyrnauer’s chirpy documentary charts the rise of this affable but restless pioneer, motivated since the start of his career to break out of insular Japan and shake up its cuisine. Signature dishes like his iconic black cod with miso – made with Alaskan sablefish – or Peruvian-influenced yellowtail sashimi with jalapeno veer well off the sushi-restaurant template. But don’t call it fusion, Tyrnauer’s film says early on; it’s still Japanese food, just open to foreign ingredients and techniques.
After a rocky start in life, in which a young Matsuhisa was placed on probation after reckless driving, he got “lost in sushi”. After stints in Peru and Alaska, it was setting up Matsuhisa restaurant on Los Angeles’ La Cienega Boulevard that made his name, introducing a sense of the unexpected and the lavish to the burgeoning western yen for sushi. Robert De Niro was one convert, making an offer to set up a New York branch that Matsuhisa refused; it was something he felt he wasn’t ready for. Several years on, they finally partnered to set up the first of the eponymous eateries. One of De Niro’s acquaintances questioned how Matsuhisa could be a master if he just had to chop raw fish. “Nobu wouldn’t like to hear you say that,” was the actor’s testy reply.
This docu-portrait verges on corporate promo at times, though there are a couple of telling vignettes in the second half. One is Matsuhisa hauling the Los Cabos hotel staff over the coals for sloppy preparation of his dishes; the other is De Niro shooting down another partner’s ill-fitting ideas for new Nobu locations. Both testify to the difficulty of maintaining a coherent culinary and brand culture in globalised ventures; Matsuhisa does indeed seem to supply a Japanese aestheticism and rigour at the centre of things. One colleague suggests his sensitivity to failure is also very Japanese: he came close to suicide after his Alaska restaurant burned down and is haunted by a feeling of responsibility for the suicide of his best friend. But having lost his father traumatically early, it’s just as likely this anxiety is personal. Either way, it’s clear that this sensitivity paid off in the kitchen.
• Nobu is on digital platforms from 18 May.
