Ever since I first swooned at the gorgeousness of 1929’s Pandora’s Box, I have been wondering if all that is between me and iconic beauty is a geometric bob with a high shine that would necessitate tap dancing in backless spangles and looking at people in a smoky way. Neither winsome nor irksomely girly, and walking that fine sartorial tightrope between boyish and dominatrix, the Louise Brooks bob is the ultimate haircut for the woman of substance (who owns straighteners) Photograph: Cine Text/Sportsphoto Ltd/Allstar
From the neck down, this is so ‘now’ it’s ridiculous. Could old Charlie have imagined in 1914 when he dreamed up his vision of 'the little tramp' that his shrunken-jacket/distressed waistcoat/baggy-trousers/bowler hat montage would be paraded on the catwalks of Westwood, Commes des Garcons, Rick Owens et al until the end of time? This is from The Gold Rush (1925). Look at his expression, and the stupid way he’s standing. It’s so fashion, it’s INSANE Photograph: Sportsphoto Ltd/Allstar
The brows, a finely pencilled Vorticist’s sketch; the lips, a permanently pouty Cupid’s bow; the eyes, borrowed from Jersey cattle; the hair, a cloud of romantic kiss-curls. In Clara Bow we see the silent movie makeup perfectly exemplified. If you’re stuck in a beauty rut, why not take your pick of these and ramp up your 20s chic for the new season? But don’t do them all – someone might lash you to a train track. PS. This outfit is totally Ralph Lauren S/S12. PPS. Can someone make these shoes? Thanks Photograph: Otto Dyar/Getty Images
Putting forward an exceptionally strong case for the unashamed wearing of guyliner, manscara (and possibly lipgloss and shimmer powder), the deliciously effete-yet-brooding Valentino demonstrates that the metrosexual thing is as old as the crisp suit-and-tie combo, and when paired together, the effect is quixotic. Get your boyfriend to side-part a kilo of Black & White’s hair pomade after a vigorous gym workout as the next best thing. If he is really open-minded, consider adding a Juicy Tube Photograph: Cine Text/Sportsphoto Ltd/Allstar
I ‘vant’ to be her. Ah, Garbo. The icon, the saucepot, the mystery, the wearer of dressing gowns and parasols … Silent-era Garbo worked the come-hither look like no one before or indeed since. Here in this still from The Flesh and the Devil (1926) she demonstrates how sitting on a rock can still be fashion-hot, if only you can raise an eyebrow, tilt your head and work your outfit properly. As she famously said, “Life would be so wonderful if only we knew what to do with it” Photograph: Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer/Sportsphoto Ltd/Allstar
I've seen this look recently on Broadway Market! But hey, sometimes women just want men to make them laugh, don’t they? If your chap is (or you are) of a preppy bent you could do worse than acquiring some signature accessories in the form of a beribboned straw boater and circular specs. Both work well with casual tailoring and both will set you apart from the grungy crowd. If you can strike some comedy poses whilst you are wearing this get-up, so much the better (for us) Photograph: Cine Text/Sportsphoto Ltd/Allstar
Personifying the soft, romantic style of beauty fashionable in the 1910s, Lillian Gish demonstrates an evening look to work for spring 12. It’s a little bit floaty, a little bit kooky and there’s quite a lot of luxey texture-mix layering (lace/velvet/crepe). I like the pinned up faux-bob and the addition of the tassle around the knees. In an ideal world I would work this look at the launch of my imaginary signature scent, which would be inspired by the works of Flaubert and prosaically named 'Waft' Photograph: Library of Congress/Hulton Archive
Famous for his mournful, deadpan expression, lovely Buster Keaton was known in the silent era as ‘The Great Stone Face’ and managed to maintain a foppish, debonair look throughout his slapstick action-packed repertoire on early celluloid. What can we take from him for 2012? That whether you’re wearing tweed and a paper collar or futuristic biker sports-luxe, it’s all about a slack-limbed, poseur style of movement, a hat at a rakish angle and a superior attitude
Photograph: Cine Text/Allstar/Sportsphoto Ltd Photograph: Cine Text/Allstar/Sportsphoto Ltd/Allstar
If you thought big hair was new, think again. Long before Bardot and her backcombing, Mary Pickford was the queen of the enormous coiffure and was usually to be found acting her way off the screen whilst sporting massive brushed-out ringlets, and later, in the 20s, a fuzzy Marcel wave. If you have ever doubted the benefits of a wiggy look, consider these: a sexy, boudoir-ish, just-got-out-of-bed feel with any outfit, a slimming effect to the face, a balancing effect to a large hip, a handy storage space Photograph: Popperfoto/Getty Images
Oh Dougie, you’re so dreamy! Yes, it is a fact hitherto unacknowledged that a man brandishing a bullwhip and costumed as a Spanish nobleman disguised as an outlaw is a strong one. Exhibit one: the jaunty moustache. Adds a devilish insouciance to what what could easily be ever-so-slightly camp. Exhibit two: the cummerbund, embellished trousers and shiny shoes. Olé. Exhibit three: the bullwhip. “I am Don Diego Vego, your lord and master and I shall now rip off your petticoats. I can keep the mask on” Photograph: Rex Features/Everett Collection
For a world polluted with tracksuits as daywear, fake Uggs and fleeces, I offer one remedy: channelling the wonderousness of Anna May Wong, the Chinese-American ingénue of the silver screen. Select one or all of the following and team with a glint in the eye and a balletic arm arrangement: a turban, kohl eyeliner, a cigarette holder, diamante embellishment, acres of side-boob, jade drop earrings, a cheongsam, anything made of silk, velvet jackets, backless ballgowns, a python Photograph: Ronald Grant Archive
