This wholly delightful documentary is a loving portrait of the 85-year-old Jiro Ono, who prepares and serves the world's greatest sushi in an austere, immaculate, brightly lit 10-seater restaurant tucked in the corner of an underground station in the fashionable Ginza district of Tokyo. He's a self-critical workaholic whose pupils sign on for 10-year apprenticeships. Jiro has a pawky sense of humour, a Zen-like approach to his work, a genius for combining depth and flavour, and his two sons are nearly as accomplished as he is. Unlike virtually all TV cookery programmes, I left the cinema wanting to meet the man and eat his food.